How the OMEGA Seamaster Became the James Bond Watch

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Six decades since the Dr. No and for half that tenure, one timepiece has faithfully served as a tactical accomplice in James Bond’s action-packed missions: OMEGA’s Seamaster. Given the spy’s penchant for style and need for faultless equipment, this was a natural match. Timepieces undeniably make memorable appearances in movies, oftentimes in B-roll scenes where protagonists glance over their wrists – but James Bond’s Seamasters have played full-fledged supporting roles.

This legacy partnership between the world’s greatest secret agent and a marque Swiss watchmaker spans three decades, ten films and 12 timepieces – We’re mapping it out for you.

Bond’s Existing ‘Super’ Watch Collection

Timepieces are important to James Bond – both to the character and the franchise. Through the eras, each timepiece he wears perfectly expresses where the luxury watch industry is positioned at the time.

• During the Sean Connery era, with movies like Dr. No (1962), From Russia with Love (1963), Goldfinger (1964), and Thunderball (1965), racing was the industry’s greatest obsession. Timepieces like the Breitling Top and cleaner-faced Gruen 510 Precision were sported in these films.
• Space exploration during the ‘70s and experimental technologies like personal computing and mobile phones of the ‘80s influenced 007’s choice of wristwear, too. Roger Moore’s Live and Let Die (1973), The Spy Who Loved Me (1977), Moonraker (1979), and Octopussy (1983) reflected this with timepieces like the Hamilton Pulsar, Seiko M354 Memory Bank Calendar, and Seiko TV Watch.
• Timothy Dalton’s The Living Daylights (1987) and Licence To Kill (1989) showcased a sporty yet classier choice of watch: TAG Heuer Professional Night Diver. Considering this coincided with the end of the quartz crisis, was it indicating the return of mechanical watches? We’ll never know.

Goldeneye: OMEGA’s Debut Mission & 007’s First Seamaster

The Bond-verse had rarely seen a hiatus this lengthy, but more importantly – it needed a revival. For Goldeneye (1995), Irish actor Pierce Brosman was roped in as the next charming rogue spy, and as Oscar-winning costume designer Lindy Hemming began dressing the new Bond, she sought a change in wristwear was imminent. Considering 007 was a former naval commander and diver, she wanted a timepiece that exuded functionality and elegance yet reflected his military service record. With OMEGA as the new official watch provider on board, the Seamaster was designated as the next Bond watch. The Seamaster Professional 300M was a textbook 300-metre water-resistant divers’ watch, featuring a quartz movement housed in a stainless-steel case and a deeper-than-the-ocean blue dial. This watch also featured a built-in laser beam on its bezel, which allowed Bond to desperately escape an exploding train car. This was the first ever true ‘Bond Watch’.

Dangerously Charming – Unwavering Precision

For the next three movies: Tomorrow Never Dies (1997), The World Is Not Enough (1999) and Die Another Day (2002), Brosman switched from quartz to automatic chronometer. Cosmetically, OMEGA surely moved a few of its screws around but didn’t stray too far from its predecessor – retaining its five-link steel bracelet, wavy blue dial and matching bezel. It housed a Calibre 1120, which delivered a 44-hour power reserve. What was also new was its ability to detonate and grapple hook, which allowed Bond to escape a missile base. In Die Another Day (2002), Brosman’s last appearance as 007, his Seamaster Diver 300M came equipped with a laser in its crown. Q also swapped out the helium escape valve for a detonator pin.

Casino Royale – New Era, New Bond, Same Seamaster

Four years later, the James Bond 007 series not only got a new Bond character (Daniel Craig) but also a complete reboot. EON Productions needed the spy to focus on realism – being human, showing emotion and fear. Overall, less gimmicky, having ditched all those quirky gizmo gadgets and cartoonish chases. This refresh wasn’t only in regard to Bond’s character but also his cars, outfits, and, of course, watches.

Carrying 007’s tradition of wearing OMEGA Seamasters, this reincarnation saw not one but two new models. The first was a classic Seamaster Diver 300M Professional, retaining its blue dial and bezel, now equipped with a co-axial automatic movement, Calibre 2500. The second takes a sportier turn – the Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Co-Axial Chronometer cased in 45.5 millimetres of stainless steel and strapped on in black rubber.

Two years later, Quantum of Solace (2008) rolls in and 007 dons his first ever Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M with a steel strap – rugged, sturdier, yet classier. This 42-millimetre steel-cased, black-dialled diver is smaller than its predecessor, nodding to more functional dressing choices.

No Time to Die, Truly

Marking 50 years of the James Bond 007 franchise, Skyfall (2002) gets two Seamasters. The first, similar to the black-dial, steel strap PO seen in the previous instalment, has a black ceramic bezel and improved movement. Second is a refreshing Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial Chronometer with a striped, blue dial, measuring just 39.5 millimetres of stainless steel. Much better fitting for Bond’s black-tie indulgences. Bond followed this up with a 41.5-millimetre Seamaster Aqua Terra for his next appearance in Spectre (2015). Accompanying this was a Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial Chronometer ‘Spectre Edition’. Limited to 7,007 pieces, this special edition was specially developed for the movie – featuring a 12-hour bezel, grainy black dial, and a 5-stripe NATO ‘Bond’ strap in black and grey. Bonus: this model was equipped with a countdown bomb.

For the latest instalment of the franchise, No Time To Die (2021), Bond receives a special Seamaster Diver 300M Co-Axial ‘007 Edition’. Guess what? It’s available at Kapoor Watch Company boutiques.

James Bond’s OMEGA Seamaster Watches at Kapoor Watch Company

At Kapoor Watch Company’s boutiques, the OMEGA Seamaster collection is available in three sub-categories: Aqua Terra, Planet Ocean, 300, of course, Diver 300. These core collection models are traditionally sized at 42 millimetres (select models range between 41 to 44 millimetres), offering classic dial colours such as black, blue, and white, as well as vibrant experimental hues of red, orange, and green.

For 007 fans, Kapoor Watch Company is showcasing two special edition Seamaster Diver 300M models. First, celebrating six decades of 007 on screen, an absolutely regal Seamaster Diver 300M (Ref. 210.30.42.20.03.002) cased in 42-millimetres stainless steel and a ‘Goldeneye’ blue dial. Replete with tributes, the dial’s wavy, laser-engraved guilloche nods to Bond’s roots as a former Royal Navy Commander, while the caseback boasts a ‘moiré’ effect animation in the form of the franchise’s iconic ‘spinning gun barrel’ opening sequence motif – decorated underneath the sapphire with micro-structured metallisation. The self-winding OMEGA Calibre 8806 offers a 55-hour power reserve. Strapped in a brushed stainless steel mesh bracelet.

Second, and nearly identical to 007’s watch worn in No Time To Die, this 42-millimetre Seamaster Diver 300M (Ref. 210.90.42.20.01.001) is forged in Grade 2 titanium and sports a brown tropical aluminium bezel, guaranteeing strength and agility. After playing Bond in five films across 15 years, Daniel Craig was recruited by OMEGA to co-design this watch. This distinctive brownish black dial hue is an ode to Bond’s military past, making for pure 007 memorabilia. It’s also strapped in a titanium mesh bracelet.