Returning in its fifth edition, LVMH’s Watch Week (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy) has become the spiritual inaugurator of horology’s calendar year. Since its debut in 2020’s digitally confined world with just four maisons, the luxury watch fair has now extended this roster to nine – tallying last year’s inclusion of fellow legacy titles like Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta and 2025 freshers – Louis Vuitton, L’Epée 1839, and Tiffany & Co. Until the second week of January, LVMH Watch Week 2025 was scheduled to be hosted in Los Angeles, California – designated to signify the rising influence of American collectors and enthusiasts in the global watch scene. However, these plans were sadly derailed by the devastating California wildfires and forced LVMH to shift plans to two venue cities – New York and Paris.
As TAG Heuer celebrates their reinstitution as official timekeeper of Formula 1 with retro racy chronographs, the Chinese ‘Year of the Snake’ graces Bvlgari’s Serpenti with a mechanical rebirth, and Daniel Roth’s new Souscription takes a minimalist route while Hublot’s mighty Saxem makes another ‘Big Bang’. Here are 7 new releases from LVMH Watch Week 2024 that have our attention.
Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas and Serpenti Seduttori (New Automatic Movement)
I had a hunch that Bvlgari’s Serpenti was coiling up to surprise us all at LVMH-WW25 – considering the auspiciousness of the Year of the Snake. Over the last three-quarters of a century, we’ve seen the Serpenti shed its skin time and time again, embracing countless alter-egos, be it the Seduttori’s snakehead-shaped case or Tubogas’ wrist-wrapping bracelet. For 2025, the innovation isn’t cosmetic but mechanical with the new BVS100 Lady Solotempo miniature automatic movement, a spiritual successor of the BVL150 and Piccolissimo movement. Making its debut in the Serpenti Seduttori collection and rose gold Tubogas editions, the new micro-mechanical marvel is produced in-house in Le Sentier. At just 3.9 millimetres thick, the new movement offers a 50-hour power reserve.
Hublot Big Bang MECA-10 (42mm)
In 2016, Hublot unveiled the Big Bang MECA-10 – a micro-engineering masterclass featuring a manual-wound movement with a ten-day power reserve housed in a 45-millimetre, playfully distinct architecture. Nearly a decade later, Hublot ergonomically downsizes the MECA-10 by just a notch (3 millimetres) in a refined, compact build crafted from three special ingredients: King Gold, Titanium, and Frosted Carbon. Oh! It also employs the manual HUB1205, which also receives a nifty overhaul. Blending mechanics and the motion of time, this layered form of architecture is inspired by Meccano-type construction. Aesthetically, the new MECA-10 is an industrial beauty in skeletal form, featuring a power reserve indicator near three o’clock, which takes after a “crémaillère” rack system. On its caseback, the MECA-10 retains its signature bridges attached to the base plate.
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph x Oracle Red Bull Racing
TAG Heuer’s future is all about speed. As 2025 marks Formula 1’s 75th anniversary, TAG Heuer also celebrates the reclamation of their crown as the official F1 timekeeper. Bringing the F1 adrenaline back to the wrist, TAG Heuer unveils five new Formula 1 models – four chronographs and a super-special Oracle Red Bull Racing edition. As a nod to their ongoing partnership with Oracle Red Bull Racing since 2016, it features a grade-2 titanium case, tachymeter bezel with forged carbon insert, and blue opaline dial with a checkered flag pattern. Every detail of this model reflects Oracle Red Bull Racing’s iconic colours, with Pantone hues carefully applied for authenticity. Inside rests an automatic-running Calibre 16 with a chronograph function, offering a 42-hour power reserve.
TAG’s racetrack-inspired offerings for LVMH-WW25 didn’t stop there. The excitement continues with the TAG Heuer Carrera lineup, introducing the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye, a tribute to the 1965 Monte Carlo Rally, and the stunning purple TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph and Chronograph Tourbillon models with their captivating gradient dials. Adding a luxurious touch, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph in precious materials showcases diamond-studded elegance, while the TAG Heuer Carrera Date welcomes pastel hues for a softer, refined aesthetic.
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription
Whenever we heard ‘Souscription’, we pictured a rose gold case housing an elegant, swivelling tourbillon. This changes at LVMH-WW25 as Daniel Roth’s second Souscription comes to light, departing from its traditional mechanical mastery and taking a rather slimmer, minimalist route. Measuring in an identical 38.6 x 35.5-millimetre, double eclipse form as its tourbillon sibling, its yellow gold case is just 7.7 millimetres thin. Powering this is the new DR002 ultra-thin movement designed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, offering a 65-hour power reserve. Upon close inspection, you’ll notice that the dial comprises two parts, one of which features a Clou de Paris hand-done guilloche, inspired by a hand-operated straight-line engine from 1935. The second is a ring-like filet sauté guilloche applied with a machine from around 1850. The Extra Plat Souscription stays true to the brand’s discreet and minimalist nature with a solid yellow gold caseback.
Louis Vuitton Taiko Spin Time Air Antipode
If you’ve paid attention to LV’s ‘complicated’ watchmaking trajectory since 2002, it’s beautifully apparent that they’re amidst a horological renaissance. However, the 2009 Spin Time was unique – putting a ‘spin’ on their Tambour watch case by featuring twelve revolving cubes orbiting the dial’s centre. For 2025, LV unveils the Tambour Taiko Spin Time collection with six new variants, with the Spin Time Antipode as its showstopper. This one-of-a-kind world timer simultaneously indicates time across 24 time zones, including day-night indication. Each cube represents two cities, while local time is indicated by a skeletonized minute hand and yellow hour pointer that rotates around the world map disk. It employs a self-winding LFT ST12.01 calibre, which offers a 45-hour power reserve. Cased in 42.5 millimetre 18-carat white gold and strapped on in beige.
At LVMH-WW25, Louis Vuitton also unveiled the Tambour Taiko Spin Time and Tambour Taiko Spin Time Air, which arrived in a skeletonized form to create a ‘levitating’ visual effect, and a third Flying Tourbillon edition. In contrast to these, the time-only Tambour Convergence pays tribute to vintage watches with guichet displays, which show the hours and minutes in two windows using moving discs.
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Rainbow
Currently, Zenith’s Chronomaster Sport catalogue is their apex. Celebrated for housing their highly revered El Premiro 3600 column-wheel chronograph movement accurate to 1/10th of a second, Zenith now embellishes this icon with a splash of rainbow jewels. Cased in 41-millimetre 18-carat white gold, its bezel is bejewelled with 50 rainbow baguette sapphires transitioning through a kaleidoscope of hues. The dial features the Chronomaster Sport’s signature 3-6-9 overlapping chronograph registers with rainbow sapphire indexes. Running automatic, the 3600 delivers a 60-hour power reserve.
Accompanying the Chronomaster Sport Rainbow at LVMH-WW25, Zenith unveiled the DEFY Skyline Chronograph Skeleton, boasting an edgy openwork design that lets you admire every technical detail of its El Primero movement and each moment of precision. Available in options of blue or black skeletal dials.
Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal
Dailing back to 1994, the spiky silhouette of a sea urchin captured Genta’s imagination during a vacation in Corsica, and he quickly sketched out a timepiece inspired by it. Three decades later, the Genta brand from LVMH’s stable reignites this flame with a new Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal model. ‘Oursin’ is the French for “sea urchin”, and the timepiece is designed to evoke the vibrant elegance of the sea creature. Sized at 36 millimetres, the watch is cased in yellow gold and boasts 137 individually screwed fire opal gems which are centred by an orange cornelian dial. The faint octagonal silhouette inside the bezel is a tribute to Genta’s obsession with geometric artistry. This timepiece is powered by the Calibre GG-005 which runs automatic with a 50-hour power reserve.
Jean Schlumberger By Tiffany & Co. Bird On A Flying Tourbillon
Making a sparkling LVMH-WW debut, Tiffany & Co. delivered an ensemble of bedazzling jewellery-inspired watches alongside their classics. Back in ’65, Schlumberger took a vacation to the Caribbean and came back with an idea – he witnessed the natural elegance of yellow cockatoos, channelling it into a brooch for Tiffany & Co. Sixty years later, the maison reinterprets this icon with some serious jewel enrichment and a majestic flying tourbillon. Depicted as clouds, the base consists of 16 pieces of turquoise gemstones, upon which an off-centred dial bejewelled with 168 diamonds and a pair of diamond-set white and yellow gold birds of 147 diamonds each fly. Down South, we have the tourbillon, powered by the Caliber AFT24T01, which is manually wound and supplies a 60-hour power reserve. All this is cased in a 39-millimetre white gold case which is decorated with 340 brilliant cut diamonds. Running numbers, this timepiece is adorned with 800 diamonds and took 100 hours to precision craftsmanship.
Alongside this novelty, Tiffany & Co. also unveiled the Eternity by Tiffany Wisteria Enamel Watch, which plays with diamond shapes and is crafted using a unique plique-à-jour enamelling technique, the Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany Twenty-Four Stone Watch adorned with 707 diamonds, tallying 6.5 carats, and the Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany Bird on a Rock Tsavorite Watch which is graced by a diamond-encrusted bird with a pink sapphire for an eye, surrounded by a ring of green Tsavorite stones.
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