Watches & Wonders 2025: Best New Watches from the World’s Biggest Watch Fair

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Ladies and gentlemen, it’s time.

Palexpo, Geneva is currently the watch-world’s most bustling hotspot with Watches & Wonders 2025 underway (April 1-7). Returning in its sixth edition, the SIHH-replacement now serves as the premier annual Swiss Watch Show, hosting over 60 maisons. As a vantage point for participating brands, watch journalists, retailers, wholesalers, and VIP clients, Watches & Wonders is where records break, benchmarks are set, and icons are born.

For 2025, maisons have leaned into nostalgia hard, exploring their respective roots and reinventing classics to create future icons. Here’s every timepiece that had our attention.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication

It’s almost tradition that the 270-year-old Vacheron Constantin sets a new high at every Watches & Wonders. Last year, time stood still when the Berkley Grand Complication came forth with 61 complications, including Chinese and Gregorian perpetual calendars. Less than a year later, the Les Cabinotier division set a new world record for the most complicated ‘wristwatch’ – the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, bearing 41 complications, comprising 13 potential patented inventions, five minute repeaters, Gregorian Perpetual Calendar, and a zodiac sky chart. While the Berkley Grand Complication was made on commission, the Solaria is a completely VC-driven project – demonstrating the maison’s sheer technical superiority and, well, “aiming for the stars”.

Read more about Vacheron Constantin’s new releases.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds

The Tribute Monoface Small Seconds is a sparkling delight as it simply betters what’s already brilliant. As we inch our way closer to the Art-Deco icon, the Reverso’s 100th anniversary, JLC has refreshed its contemporary Monoface and Duoface layouts. The Monoface Small Seconds gets a matching pink gold case and dial with an intriguing, grained texture and a Milanese mesh-style bracelet. The Duoface, designed for globetrotters, gets a more functional refresh with a different timezone on each side/dial and small seconds at six o’clock. With a stainless-steel case measuring 28.3 millimetres, you get to choose between a black or blue ‘home’ dial and a secondary silver ‘local’ dial.

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph

TAG Heuer just re-lit the F1 fuse. After 2024’s successful Formula 1 x Kith capsule and the industry-rumbling LVMH x F1 billion-dollar partnership with TAG Heuer as the official timekeeper, we knew the Swiss maison wouldn’t stay an inch from the fast lane. Channelling this spirit of adrenaline, ‘80s motorsport, and speedy vibrancy into 2025, we see nine new references in the all-new TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph collection.

Bumping up the case size from 35 to 38 millimetres, it retains its shrouded lug design and is cast in sandblasted steel or TH-Polylight – a new material based on composite material. The dial and bezels are a mix-match of iconic 80s racing hues with the TAG Heuer shield motifs being employed as indexes at twelve, six and nine o’clock. The ‘Solargraph’ badge on the dial refers to the light-powered calibre TH50-00, previously seen on Aquaracers. With just a minute of light exposure, the Calibre TH50-00 powers the watch for a full day. Once fully charged, it boasts up to 10 months of autonomy in total darkness. Strap options include steel or rubber.

Read more about TAG Heuer’s new releases.

Zenith G.F.J CALIBRE 135

Celebrating 160 years of Zenith, the maison introduces the G.F.J – a new collection honouring visionary and founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. Reworking the legendary calibre 135 (that predates the mighty El Primero), it builds upon the success of their 2022 Kari Voutilainen capsule, which was powered by restored original calibre 135-0s from the ‘50s. Revered as one of Zenith’s most exquisite time-only watches created in decades, it was a rousing success, bringing the maison’s chronometer heritage under the spotlight. The new G.F.J models, Zenith will pull the original 1962 blueprints once again. The central dial plate boasts a ‘brick’ guilloche while the inner and small seconds dials are draped in lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. These are adorned by faceted hour indexes and 40 white gold beads as minute trackers. Inside, the calibre 135 runs manually with a 70-hour power reserve, and yes, it’s COSC-certified. Limited to 160 pieces.

Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon

Another Watches & Wonders, another record for Bvlgari – just like clockwork. The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is now the world’s thinnest tourbillon measuring just 1.85 millimetres in thickness. Marking the maison’s 10th world record in their pursuit of ultra-thin mastery – it interestingly isn’t their first tourbillon record. First, in 2014 (Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manual Wind) at 5.0 millimetres, followed by 2018 (Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic). However, last year, Piaget grabbed the trophy with the Altiplano Concept Tourbillon at 2.0 millimetres, setting a new mission for Bvlgari.

In pure skeletal glory, the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is cased in 40 millimetres of titanium with an ultra-hard tungsten carbide baseplate. Swapping out the crown for two horizontal steel knobs on either side of the case (one for winding, the other for time setting), the hand-wound BVF 900 tourbillon calibre was co-designed with Concepto. Bvlgari’s guiding principle when creating ultra-thin wonders is to rearrange all functions on a horizontal plane instead of layering them atop each other. With the caseback employed as the movement’s baseplate, the tourbillon regulator rests at four while the hour and minute dial are at two o’clock.

Read more about Bvlgari’s new releases.

IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 42 Black Ceramic

Combining the Gérald Genta-derived integrated bracelet design with a full ceramic execution is IWC Schaffhausen embracing their heritage with a pinch of playfulness. Ceramic, extremely tough and resistant to scratches is lighter than steel and better heat resistant. Interestingly, IWC Schaffhausen created the world’s first wristwatch with a black zirconium oxide ceramic case, which laid a path for innovation for decades to follow. Today, the case ring, bezel, crown, and caseback ring of the Ingenieur Automatic 42 are cast in black zirconium oxide ceramic – offering a hardness value of 1300 Vickers. The pitch-black dial boasts an Ingenieur hallmark ‘grid’ guilloche and is luminously contrasted by hands and indexes dipped in Super-LumiNova®. Inside, the calibre 82110 features a Pellaton winding system that efficiently converts oscillating movements into energy, delivering a 60-hour power reserve.

Read more about IWC’s new releases.

Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech™

Back in 2022, Panerai unveiled a 33-piece Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo in a smoked sapphire dial which put its movement’s mechanical poetry on display – receiving high praise for also departing from traditional design language. Furthering this stride, Panerai unveils a new GMT Platinumtech™, with a dark-blue sapphire dial exuding a similar translucent effect, allowing the wearer to peek into perpetual calendar discs. Matching the blue-tinted dial is a GMT arrow hand which is coupled by a 24-hour sub-dial at nine o’clock. This is cased in a 44-millimetre Platinumtech™ case with Panerai’s iconic crown guard and powered by the self-winding P.4100 delivering a three-day power reserve.

Read more about Panerai’s new releases.

Cartier Tank à Guichets

For Watches & Wonders 2025, Cartier dug deep into their archives, reviving a horlogerie relic lost in time. This brutalist design was first seen in 1928 featuring a crown at twelve o’clock and exclusively jumping hours/minutes on its dial to indicate time. The Tank à Guichets slates in as a quartet – yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum featuring jumping hours at twelve o’clock and trailing minutes at six, and a second limited-edition platinum model with jumping hours at ten o’clock and minutes trail at four. The latter,
limited to 200 pieces is titled Tank à Guichets ‘Oblique’ and boasts a driver-esque layout.

Read more about Cartier’s new releases.

Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR]

While Vacheron Constantin chases the epitomes of complexity and Bvlgari obsesses over hyper-miniaturization, Ulysse Nardin chooses a path of lightness. Meet the Diver [AIR], the world’s lightest mechanical dive watch weighing in at a feather 56 grams on the wrist (46 grams without the fabric strap). To achieve this level of lightness, Ulysse Nardin developed a hybrid modular construction of titanium and carbon.

On a note of sustainability, the titanium case components are 90% recycled while its lugs and side components are crafted from recycled fishing nets and upcycled carbon fibre called ‘Nylo-Foil’. Furthermore, the luminous inserts on the titanium bezel are salvaged from carbon fibre taken from upcycled IMOCA sailing boats. These parts were chopped, compressed, and then forged to create this strikingly industrial texture. The calibre UN-374 is self-winding with a 90-hour power reserve and weighs a minuscule 7 grams. In terms of total volume, the Diver [AIR]’s case is 80% air and 20% movement.

Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary Edition ‘Materials and High Complications’
Unique Set

Marking the Big Bang’s 20th anniversary, Hublot unveiled three special edition collections, all distinct from each other. The ‘Materials and High Complications’ unique set of five wonders has our undivided attention.

The list begins with a red-hot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Red Magic ceramic-cased model coupled with a sapphire case version housing the in-house calibre HUB6035, delivering a 72-hour power reserve. Next, a Water Blue sapphire-cased Big BangTourbillon Chronograph with a mono-pusher at two o’clock and 115-hour power reserve. Entering the heavyweight league, we also have the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Cathedral Minute Repeater in Blue Texalium with a case and bracelet forged out of deep-blue woven carbon-fibre material. Finally, we have a carbon fibre-cased tourbillon and cathedral minute repeater with a mono-pusher chronograph – a true apex of Hublot’s undying spirit of innovation.

Read more about Hublot’s new releases.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date

Patek Phillippe has a notorious reputation for observing ultra-high complications in modestly minimalist dial layouts. They haven’t strayed away from tradition but added a pinch of playfulness – putting the inner mechanisms on display and a rather intriguing bezel style. Powered by a self-winding calibre 26-330 S QR which offers a retrograde date display, rendering of the day, leap-year cycle, and month, and promises a 45-hour power reserve. The white gold case measures 39.5 millimetres along with a hobnail bezel – inside, we see an incredible smoked sapphire dial with a moonphase at six o’clock.

Hermès Arceau Le Temps Suspendu

Escaping the ticking of time and poetically pausing, Hermès’ Cut Le Temps suspendu is an artful reinterpretation of the maison’s now-iconic model from 2011 that allows you to freeze time and relive precious moments for eternity. See that tiny pusher at eight o’clock? With the press of a pusher at nine o’clock, the hour and minute hands retreat to a whimsical 12 o’clock stance, as if time itself had been placed on hold. Another push, and they spring back to life, resuming their quiet march.

Another fascinating feat is that the small seconds register at four o’clock runs counterclockwise. The Manufacture Hermès H1912 movement is housed in a 42-millimetre white or rose gold case in three colour options: sunburst blue, brun désert, rouge sellier.

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold

The Odysseus -A. Lange & Söhne ’s first truly integrated sports watch in their 180-year lineage, is fantastically brilliant for a multitude of reasons. For Watches & Wonders 2025, A. Lange & Söhne drapes the Odysseus in their proprietary special ingredient – Honeygold, that shifts between rose, yellow, and brown. This is further complimented by a whiskey-deep brown brass dial, another rarity for the maison. Sizing in at 40.5 millimetres of 18-carat

Honeygold, it houses the calibre L155.1 Datomatic which tells the date and day of the week, delivering a 50-hour power reserve. Limited to 100 pieces.

Chopard l’Heure du Diamant Moonphase

The undying romance of the moon and sparkling stars in the night sky and Chopard’s legacy of glimmering haute joaillerie, truly is a natural match. At Watches & Wonders 2025, the maison brings this elegance to life, creating a novelty enriched by diamonds and bearing a moonphase. ‘Heure du Diamant’ translating from French to ‘Diamond Hour’, or ‘Hour of the Diamond’, is a much-admired Chopard icon, now cased in 35.75 millimetres of 18-carat ethical white gold and set with 3.86-carats worth of brilliant-cut diamonds.

The moonphase made visible through a starry aventurine glass chronicles the moon’s rotation with astronomical rotation – indicating lunar cycles with a discrepancy of merely 57.2 seconds. It would take 122 years for this to reach 24 hours, which would then require adjusting. This is powered by the Chopard 09.02-C automatic movement which delivers a 42-hour power reserve. Strapped by an absolutely regal shade of blue leather.

Read more about Chopard’s new releases.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication

Roger Dubuis celebrates 30 years of bold, mechanically extravagant, and gloriously skeletal watchmaking. Hence, it would only be fitting to combine the three hallmark traits to mark the occasion.

The second of its kind (last seen in 2009), the Excalibur Grande Complication boasts a pantheon of horological wonders: perpetual calendar, minute repeater, and flying tourbillon. Housed in a large 45-millimetre pink gold case that’s 17 millimetres thick, it boasts Roger Dubuis’s signature three-lug design and ribbed bezel, including a minute repeater pusher at nine o’clock. The dial is a Frankenstein-esque skeletal canvas filled with gears, bridges, and pink gold indexes. Amidst the chaos between the perpetual calendar registers and the flying tourbillon’s titanium disk, is a tiny leap-year indicator at one o’clock. Inside, the self-winding RD118 comprises 684 components and offers a 60- hour power reserve. Limited to just eight pieces

Read more about Roger Dubuis’s new releases.